Triangle Shirtwaist Fire Victims. Remember.

Aberstein, Julia30 Adler, Lizzie24 Altman, Anna16 Ardito, Anna25 Astrowsky, Becky20 Bassino, Rosie31 Belatta, Vincenza16 Bellotta, Ignazia
 Father identified by heel of shoe.Benanti, Vincenza22 Bernstein, Essie19 Bernstein, Jacob28 Bernstein, Morris19 Bernstein, Moses
 Bierman, Gussie22Parents complained body stripped of rings.Binevitz, Abraham20 Brenman, Rosie
 Brenman, Surka (Sarah)
 Brodsky, Ida16 Brodsky, Sarah21 Brooks, Ida18 Brunette, Laura17 Caputta17 Carlisi, Josep31 Caruso, Albina20 Carutto, Frances17 Castello, Josie21 Cirrito, Rosie
 Cohen, Anna25 Colletti, Antonia (Annie)30 Costello, Della
 Crepo, Rose19 Denent, Grances20 Dichtenhultz (Fichtenhultz), Yetta18 Dockman (Dochman), Dora (Clara)19 Dorman, K
 Identified by registered letter.Downic, Kalman24 Eisenberg, Celia17 Feibush, Rose

Feicisch(Feibish), Rebecca17  Died at hospital after jumping.Feltzer40 Fitze, Mrs. Dosie Lopez24Survived jump for day, then died.Forrester, May25 Franco, Jennie16 Frank, Tina17 Gallo, Mrs. Mary23 Geib, Bertha25 Gernstein, Molly17 Gittlin, Celina17 Goldfield, Esther
 Goldstein, Esther
 Goldstein, Lena22 Goldstein, Mary11 Goldstein, Yetta20 Gorfield, Esther22 Grameattassio, Mrs. Irene24 Harris, Esther21 Broke back coming down elevator chute.Herman, Mary40 Jakobowski, Ida
 Kaplan (woman)20 Kenowitch, Ida18 Keober30 Kessler, Becky
Tag read, "B Kessler, call for her tomorrow."Klein, Jacob23 Kupla, Sara
Jumped.  Survived five days after fire.Launswold, Fannie24 Lefkowitz, Nettie28 Lehrer, Max19 Lehrer, Sam
 Leone, Kate14 Lermack, Rosie D.19 Leventhal, Mary22Identified by gold-capped tooth.Levin, Jennie19Attractive woman who died with folded armsLevine, Abe
 Levine, Max
 Levine, Pauline19 Maltese, Catherine
Mother of two victims below.Maltese, Lucia20One of three bodies identified by her brother.Maltese, Rosalie(Rosari)14 Manara, Mrs. Maria27 Manofsky, Rose22 Died at Bellevue Hospital.Marciano, Mrs. Michela25 Mayer, Minnie
 Meyers, Yetta19 Miale, Bettina18Identified by ring on her finger.Miale, Frances21 Midolo, Gaetana16 Nebrerer, Becky19 Nicholas, Annie18 Nicolose, Nicolina  (Michelina)
 Novobritsky, Annie20 Nussbaum (Nausbaum),  Sadie18Lower half of body consumed by flame.Oberstein, Julia19 Oringer, Rose
 Died at St. Vincent's Hospital.Ozzo, Carrie22 Pack, Annie18 Panno, Mrs. Providenza48 Pasqualicca, Antonietta16 Pearl, Ida20 Pildescu, Jennie18 Pinello, Vincenza30 Poliny, Jennie20 Prato, Millie21 Reivers, Becky19 Rootstein, Emma
 Robinowitz, Abraham
 Rosen, Israel17Sister identified body by ring.Rosen, Julia(widow)35$842 found in her stocking.Rosen, Mrs. Leob38 Rosenbaum, Yetta22 Rosenberg, Jennie21 Rosenfeld, Gussie22Last body to be identified.Rosenthal, Nettie21 Rother, R25 Rother, Theodore22 Sabasowitz, Sarah17 Salemi, Sophie24Identified by a darn in her stocking.Saracino, Sara
 Saracino, Serafina25 Saracino, Tessie20 Schiffman, Gussie18 Schmidt, Mrs. Theresa32 Schneider, Mrs. Ethel
 Schochep, Violet21 Schwartz, Margaret
Named victim in criminal case.Selzer, Jacob33 Semmilio, Mrs. Annie30 Shapiro, Rosie17 Shena, Catherine30 Sklaver, Berel (Sklawer,  Bennie)25 Sorkin, Rosie18 Spear
 Sprunt
 Spunt, Gussie19 Starr, Mrs. Annie30 Stein, Jennie18 Stellino, Jennie16 Stiglitz, Jennie22 Tabick, Samuel18 Terdanova (Terranova),  Clotilde22  Only victim to die on tenth floor; jumped.Tortorella, Isabella17 Ullo, Mary20 Utal, Meyer23 Velakowsky,  Freda(Freida)20Survived jump for 3 days, then died.Vivlania, Bessie15 Vovobritsky, Annie20 Weinduff, Sally17 Weiner, Rose23 Weintraub, Sally (Sarah?)17 Weintraub, Celia
 Welfowitz, Dora21 Wilson, Joseph21Found by fiance; to have been wed in June.Wisner, Tessie27 Wisotsky, Sonia17 Wondross, Bertha

Zeltner

>

30

Died of internal injuries at St. Vincent's.

What is a camp shirt?

Apparently, both the Shop Manager and I were confused as to what made a shirt specifically a camp shirt.  I thought it was the tabs on the sleeves that held rolled sleeves in place (you know--the ones that come from inside and button to the outside of the sleeve?).  Gloria thought it was pockets that make a camp shirt.  After a little research, it seems we are both mistaken.  What really makes a shirt a camp shirt is the collar.
So far, Wikipedia is the only reference I have found on line:

A Camp shirt is a loose, straight-cut, short-sleeved shirt or blouse with a simple placket front opening and a "camp collar" - a one-piece collar (no collar band) that can be worn open and spread or closed at the neck with a button and loop. It usually has a straight hemmed bottom falling at hip level, not intended to be tucked into trousers, etc. It is often the base for fancier fabrics such as Hawaiian prints, or tropically inspired weaves and patterns.


After reading this, I remembered the camp collar or convertible collar from one of my flat patterning books.  I am apt to believe this is probably the most accurate definition.  If anyone else has a source or ideas, please let us know!

Freaky Fashion Friday: Chopines

Chopines, c. 1400-1700 C.E.

A high platform shoe of wood or cork, popularized in Venice, but also widely used throughout Europe during the Renaissance.  The elevated shoes are thought to have developed from a need to navigate the muddy and uneven stone streets of Venice, so as to protect the skirts of the wearer from muck and mud.  They soon developed into a status symbol, worn by courtesan and patrician alike; the higher the platform, the higher the wearer's status.  There are extant chopines as tall as 20".  Chopines are also called "pattens" and often were decorated with fabrics, inlay, and jewels.  Women wearing the chopine needed the accompaniment of a servant or valet she could lean on for balance as the height of the shoe made her gait unsteady.  (I am reminded of the unfounded legend that Marilyn would routinely saw 1/4" off of one of each pair of heels to give her that sexy, slightly unsteady walk she made famous).

A similar style worn by a Japanese woman.

Do you see any parallel with modern fashion?
Check out Galliano's shoes from the runways.  

How about the modern platform heel?

Plastic Bag Holder: Tutorial

It seems we are always buried under a pile of bags in the costume shop, what with all the fabric, clothing, and snack shopping.  For years we just shoved the bags between the fridge and the shelves, but recently have noticed them creeping out and encroaching upon the first hands' table and the path to the fridge.

Well, clearly we could no longer function with such clutter!  So, during our prep week, we created three bag holders to control the mess.  One for grocery-sized bags, one for the large Jo-Mar bags, and a third for...?  Well, good thing we have a third because the first two are already full!

Here is a tutorial for making the bags.  The entire project takes only half an hour and can use scraps left over from larger projects.

Enjoy!  And be sure to post your experiences if you try this, and any pictures if you've got them!

Materials:  1 22"x32" piece of fabric; 30" of 1/4" elastic; thread

1.  On each 22" side, fold down 1/2" to inside and press; fold down an additional 1" and press again.

2.  Unfold both pressed ends.

3.  Right side to right side, pin 2 long sides and sew with 1/4" seam allowance.

4.  Overlock seamed edge together.

5.  To make the casing for the elastics:  On ends, refold where you pressed in step 1, sew 3/4" from the folded edge and leave 1.5" open.

6.  Using a safety pin, thread a 15" piece of elastic through the casing of the top, a 10" piece of elastic through the casing of the bottom.

7.  Overlap and sew the ends of the elastics securely and flat.

8.  Sew the casings closed.

9.  Use the remaining elastic as a hanging loop:  Sew to inside back seam at the top.

Here is the finished product!  Congrats on finishing your first Shopbeat tutorial.

Clean the Shop, Cleanse the Soul

Our largest production of the season, The Cherry Orchard, closed on February 20th and with the clearing of the orchard went numerous piles of costumes and supplies to their rightful homes.  Having nearly 2 weeks of prep-time before Bat Boy takes over the racks has been an unusual luxury.  We are more organized than ever before...have you EVER BEFORE seen the top of the cutter/draper's table?

We strive to learn from and improve with each production.  Having just a little time between projects gives us the opportunity to think back on what worked and what didn't, to review what was most stressful and think of new ways to approach our work and alleviate those same stresses in the future.  Maybe the physical act of picking up every last thread and pin or purging old notes from binders is a kind of therapy.  With each trip to the dumpster, can we also get rid of any remaining resentment from tech?  With each swipe of disinfectant, can we also clear away residual fatigue and stress from dress rehearsals and previews?

And so we are spotless.  Costume racks and hearts are lighter.  Let's pledge to jump into our next project with energy and excitement and renewed joy for our work.