Freaky Fashion Friday: The Cummerbund

IN HONOR OF PROM SEASON...

Origin:
The word Cummerband which entered English vocabulary in 1616 via languages of the Indian subcontinent such as Hindi and Urdu, is originally a Persian genitive phrase comprising kamar(waist) + band (band). (Wikipedia)
The cummerbund as we know it today developed during the British occupation of India and is based on the kamarband worn by Indian officers.  British officers adopted the waist band as a cooler alternative to wearing a waistcoat (vest) with formal dinner wear.  In the 1850's, this style made it to the UK and soon became the standard form of black tie apparel.


Pronunciation:  Hear the word pronounced here!
Alternative spellings:  cummerband; kummerbund; kamarband


Proper use:  A cummerbund is worn with a single breasted formal jacket (dinner jacket or tuxedo coat) in place of or as an alternative to the vest (waistcoat).  The cummerbund is worn over the waistband of the pants (and over the shirt), but underneath the jacket.  Pleats open upward, originally to hold theater tickets and other small items and not to catch crumbs (though this undoubtedly happened on occasion) as the legend goes.  It is considered to be a semi-formal form of dress, the black or white pique vest being most formal.


Pet Peeves:  please note that the spelling and pronunciation are not "cumberbund" or "crumberbund".  Wearing a cummerbund with a vest is the equivalent of wearing a belt with suspenders.  Alternative colors to the traditional (black, navy, burgundy) like reds or brocaides are GREAT, but matching tie to cummerbund just makes you look like a waiter or a saxophone player in a wedding band.


Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cummerbund
http://www.bows-n-ties.com/mens-fashion-tips/wrapper.php?/archives/116-The-History-of-the-Cummerbund.html
http://wellsuitedwithmytuxedo.blogspot.com/2010/11/cummerbund-potted-history.html
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/cummerbund
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_tie
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_tie

What is a camp shirt?

Apparently, both the Shop Manager and I were confused as to what made a shirt specifically a camp shirt.  I thought it was the tabs on the sleeves that held rolled sleeves in place (you know--the ones that come from inside and button to the outside of the sleeve?).  Gloria thought it was pockets that make a camp shirt.  After a little research, it seems we are both mistaken.  What really makes a shirt a camp shirt is the collar.
So far, Wikipedia is the only reference I have found on line:

A Camp shirt is a loose, straight-cut, short-sleeved shirt or blouse with a simple placket front opening and a "camp collar" - a one-piece collar (no collar band) that can be worn open and spread or closed at the neck with a button and loop. It usually has a straight hemmed bottom falling at hip level, not intended to be tucked into trousers, etc. It is often the base for fancier fabrics such as Hawaiian prints, or tropically inspired weaves and patterns.


After reading this, I remembered the camp collar or convertible collar from one of my flat patterning books.  I am apt to believe this is probably the most accurate definition.  If anyone else has a source or ideas, please let us know!

Freaky Fashion Friday: Chopines

Chopines, c. 1400-1700 C.E.

A high platform shoe of wood or cork, popularized in Venice, but also widely used throughout Europe during the Renaissance.  The elevated shoes are thought to have developed from a need to navigate the muddy and uneven stone streets of Venice, so as to protect the skirts of the wearer from muck and mud.  They soon developed into a status symbol, worn by courtesan and patrician alike; the higher the platform, the higher the wearer's status.  There are extant chopines as tall as 20".  Chopines are also called "pattens" and often were decorated with fabrics, inlay, and jewels.  Women wearing the chopine needed the accompaniment of a servant or valet she could lean on for balance as the height of the shoe made her gait unsteady.  (I am reminded of the unfounded legend that Marilyn would routinely saw 1/4" off of one of each pair of heels to give her that sexy, slightly unsteady walk she made famous).

A similar style worn by a Japanese woman.

Do you see any parallel with modern fashion?
Check out Galliano's shoes from the runways.  

How about the modern platform heel?